| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
TimC
House Bee
Joined: 05 May 2019
Posts: 12
Location: Wisconsin, USA
|
 Posted: Sun May 05, 2019 8:08 pm Post subject: Deleted |
 |
|
Deleted
Last edited by TimC on Fri May 24, 2019 2:13 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
pagman
New Bee
Joined: 03 May 2019
Posts: 1
Location: Chichester
|
| Posted: Mon May 06, 2019 1:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| I am in the process of building my 1st hive (Top bar) and I like you have been trawling you tube and the various forums to find an answer to adding a nuc without having to cut frames to fit etc, all a bit stressful for a 1st timer. Your idea seems like a good compromise so please keep us updated, a few photos would be great. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
TimC
House Bee
Joined: 05 May 2019
Posts: 12
Location: Wisconsin, USA
|
| Posted: Tue May 07, 2019 3:04 am Post subject: Deleted |
|
|
Deleted
Last edited by TimC on Fri May 24, 2019 2:13 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
imago
Nurse Bee
Joined: 07 Dec 2010
Posts: 29
Location: Switzerland, Rhone valley
|
| Posted: Fri May 17, 2019 3:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The most successful method I've experimented is roughly described here :
https://youtu.be/JzCIWhndEsY
The advantage is that you end up with an artificial swarm (and hopfully the queen) in you topbar hive and a queenless colony in your frame hive. You can transfer it after 30 days into a second topbar hive or keep it for next year if it's late in the season.
I can describe the full process on requested. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
TimC
House Bee
Joined: 05 May 2019
Posts: 12
Location: Wisconsin, USA
|
| Posted: Sat May 18, 2019 12:10 am Post subject: Deleted |
|
|
Deleted
Last edited by TimC on Fri May 24, 2019 2:14 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Barbara
Site Admin
Joined: 27 Jul 2011
Posts: 1853
Location: England/Co.Durham/Ebchester
|
| Posted: Sat May 18, 2019 1:24 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Is there a reason why you are keen for them to build up quickly. That can bring problems of it's own like possibly swarming late in the season. It is still very early in the year for bees to build up and doing a shook swarm allows you to hopefully create two viable colonies from your nuc. Personally I think doing a shook swarm and then chopping and cropping the brood combs is the best way to transfer them and it is much less disruptive than people think, assuming you are not dealing with plastic comb or foundation, but I understand it may seem daunting to novice beekeepers. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
TimC
House Bee
Joined: 05 May 2019
Posts: 12
Location: Wisconsin, USA
|
| Posted: Sat May 18, 2019 2:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Deleted
Last edited by TimC on Fri May 24, 2019 2:15 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
TimC
House Bee
Joined: 05 May 2019
Posts: 12
Location: Wisconsin, USA
|
| Posted: Sun May 19, 2019 1:59 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Deleted |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
SPECIAL OFFER FOR UK FORUM MEMBERS - Buy your protective clothing here and get a special 15% discount! (use the code BAREFOOTBEEKEEPER at checkout and be sure to 'update basket')
Are the big energy companies bleeding you dry?
Is way too much of your hard-earned family income going up in smoke?
Are you worried about what could happen if the ageing grid system fails?
You need to watch this short video NOW to find out how YOU can cut your energy bills TO THE BONE within 30 days!
WATCH THE VIDEO NOW
|
Conserving wild bees
Research suggests that bumble bee boxes have a very low success rate in actually attracting bees into them. We find that if you create an environment where first of all you can attract mice inside, such as a pile of stones, a drystone wall, paving slabs with intentionally made cavities underneath, this will increase the success rate.
Most bumble bee species need a dry space about the size a football, with a narrow entrance tunnel approximately 2cm in diameter and 20 cm long. Most species nest underground along the base of a linear feature such as a hedge or wall. Sites need to be sheltered and out of direct sunlight.
There is a spectacular display of wild bee hotels here
More about bumblebees and solitary bees here
Information about the Tree Bumblebee (Bombus hypnorum)
|
|
|
Barefoot Beekeeper Podcast
|
|
|
|
|
4th Edition paperback now available from Lulu.com
|
site map
php. BB © 2001, 2005 php. BB Group
View topic - Deleted - Natural Beekeeping Network Forum
|
|
Forum
FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Register
Your Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
