View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
BridgetB Scout Bee
Joined: 12 Jul 2010 Posts: 358 Location: UK Cornwall, Falmouth
|
Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 6:15 am Post subject: Baffle re wasps/robbing |
|
|
I lost a weak colony to wasps last year and am interested in Barbara's baffles as I set up my hives for new stock this year.
I have side entrances about 2 bars in from the end. I understand that the entrance baffle is a full size follower board with one or more holes drilled near the top. What size holes? How many? Has it worked to prevent wasps and or robbing?
Bridget |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
BridgetB Scout Bee
Joined: 12 Jul 2010 Posts: 358 Location: UK Cornwall, Falmouth
|
Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 11:40 am Post subject: |
|
|
Reading another post I think I have seen this referred to as having an entrance lobby? |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Barbara Site Admin
Joined: 27 Jul 2011 Posts: 1857 Location: England/Co.Durham/Ebchester
|
Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 5:03 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hi Bridget
Sorry not to have replied sooner. It's always difficult to assess if something works for a particular problem in beekeeping or not as there are so many variables. I would suggest that a periscope entrance will probably work better to prevent robbing because the volume of the "lobby area" it creates is smaller and therefore more difficult to sneak through.
My bees don't have a problem with wasps generally, so I can't say that it prevented them. The advantage of having my hives right outside my back door is that I can check on them regularly and spot a problem before it happens. So if I see wasps knocking about and I have a weak colony, I reduce the entrance before the robbing starts. Strong colonies take care of themselves.
I have to be honest and say that I removed my "baffle board" last summer and didn't replace it. There was a good reason at the time, I know.... I think it was because I needed the extra follower to split a colony. Anyway, my bees reduced the entrance holes themselves with propolis in the autumn which they hadn't done the previous year with the baffle board in place. They have come through winter fine and are building up slowly and steadily which is the way my bees work.
If you are genuinely worried about wasps, I would probably make a periscope entrance, but the baffle board should certainly help as a simpler installment option.
I had 2x1inch holes drilled through the baffle board at the top.
Hope that helps
Regards
Barbara |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
BridgetB Scout Bee
Joined: 12 Jul 2010 Posts: 358 Location: UK Cornwall, Falmouth
|
Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 9:46 am Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks Barbara. It is always good to know if good ideas work out. I am hoping for some swarms or maybe a split from my National later (see below) for my TBHs.
Have just bought some bees - am a beekeeper again!! They were in a WBC which the owner wanted to keep so they have been transferred into my ancient National which I had been using as a bait hive. I am now searching this site as to how to manage it more naturally. The super frames are in a second brood box which I shall add tomorrow when the bees have settled after their journey.
Bridget |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
catchercradle Golden Bee

Joined: 31 May 2010 Posts: 1551 Location: Cambridge, UK
|
Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 10:06 am Post subject: |
|
|
I haven't tried baffle/periscope entrance. - I have found that reducing the entrance size right down is pretty effective. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Barbara Site Admin
Joined: 27 Jul 2011 Posts: 1857 Location: England/Co.Durham/Ebchester
|
Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 10:07 am Post subject: |
|
|
Congrats on having bees again.
I imagine they want to keep the WBC as a garden ornament. I've had people approach me before asking if I have an old spare hive for that purpose .
Anyway, good luck with populating your TBH from whichever source and I hope you have more success this time around.
Best wishes
Barbara |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
Quality Top Bar Hives by Andrew Vidler
|
Conserving wild bees
Research suggests that bumble bee boxes have a very low success rate in actually attracting bees into them. We find that if you create an environment where first of all you can attract mice inside, such as a pile of stones, a drystone wall, paving slabs with intentionally made cavities underneath, this will increase the success rate.
Most bumble bee species need a dry space about the size a football, with a narrow entrance tunnel approximately 2cm in diameter and 20 cm long. Most species nest underground along the base of a linear feature such as a hedge or wall. Sites need to be sheltered and out of direct sunlight.
There is a spectacular display of wild bee hotels here
More about bumblebees and solitary bees here
Information about the Tree Bumblebee (Bombus hypnorum)
|
|
Barefoot Beekeeper Podcast
|
|
|
|
4th Edition paperback now available from Lulu.com
|
site map
php. BB © 2001, 2005 php. BB Group
View topic - Baffle re wasps/robbing - Natural Beekeeping Network Forum
|
|