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HowieNZ Nurse Bee
Joined: 18 May 2014 Posts: 33 Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:38 pm Post subject: Entrances to a KHTBH |
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Keeping in mind I have no practical beekeeping experience yet!
What are your current recommendations as to where to place the entrance holes? Reading older posts and Phils plans there is a seems to be an even split to long side low centre entrances with two follower boards and the end entrances low or with high entrances with a periscope with one follow board. I have nearly finished my first KHTBH but yet to decide on entrances. I live in Dunedin New Zealand which while is in the South end of the Southern Hemisphere, - 5 degrees C frosts are about as cold as gets with maybe a few days of snow each winter. Summer it is a very unusual to crack 30 degrees C. It is also unusual to get more than a couple of days rain in a row. Your words of wisdom on this subject are appreciated,
Thanks HowieNZ  |
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Che Guebuddha Golden Bee

Joined: 31 Jan 2012 Posts: 1551 Location: Hårlev, Stevns Kommune, Denmark
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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 6:25 am Post subject: |
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Quote: | - 5 degrees C frosts are about as cold as gets with maybe a few days of snow each winter. Summer it is a very unusual to crack 30 degrees C. It is also unusual to get more than a couple of days rain in a row. |
If there is little rain I would focus on creating a condenser hive with a bottom entrance hole of 30 mm so bees can use up the condensation for water needs. They evaporate large quantities of water and if water is scarce in your locality that will be of great benefit to them.
I would also have a solid bottom so bees can propolize it so condenser box can do its job. I would keep it in semi shaded area in your climate and would have Styrofoam on top of the top bars and a good ventilation under the roof to avoid comb collapse.
Periscope entrance can help if you have issues with robbing by wasps or other bees as well as strong winds. Reduced single entrance can do the same.
Cold is not that much of an issue but strong cold winds are, so place the hives where there is a wind break.
Keep the hives away from pesticide fields!
These are my views others might have more to say.
Happy Buzzing
cheguebeeapiary.blogspot.com |
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HowieNZ Nurse Bee
Joined: 18 May 2014 Posts: 33 Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 8:38 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Che for your reply,
Here in Dunedin it does rain on a regular basis but not for days on end. I am planning to give the hives a Warre type roof using untreated wool as absorb excess condensation, I have read the "Sticky" regarding entrances and the good thing is KHTBH are adaptable in regarding where to place them.
I am lucky that the hives are being placed in an organic orchard, however it isn't big enough to avoid the bees flying further into areas where pesticides are no doubt used from time to time, there is plenty of forage in the orchard, as it isn't just fruit trees but has extensive shrubbery planted with bees in mind. The owner has had bees there since 1970, kept in Langstroths but now because of Varoa and maybe other stresses lost her 7 hives last winter and is looking for a better way of keeping bees and is supporting my upcoming beekeeping endeavours.
regards HowieNZ |
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MikeRobinson Foraging Bee
Joined: 01 Apr 2012 Posts: 201 Location: Upper Northwest Georgia, USA
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Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2014 11:37 am Post subject: |
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Three holes, each the size of wine corks, are near the bottom of the sloped sides of my hives. The hives face outward in a semicircle, creating a convenient work-space in the center. The roofs of the hives that I am not working on create tables.
No woodworker would want to look at my hives, which simply sit on cement blocks, on boards which serve to shim them up so that they're level in both axes. They're "sort of" the published dimensions. They're made with found wood, and sealed on the outside with Thompson's Water Seal. Woodworkers wouldn't love 'em. Bees do.
I think it's really important to, "jump in, the water's fine." Do your best to build something nice to keep them in, knowing that you will make mistakes and have some regrets ... but ... start keeping them. |
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HowieNZ Nurse Bee
Joined: 18 May 2014 Posts: 33 Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
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Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 12:38 am Post subject: |
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yup agreed and am as soon as spring comes around and bees are available. |
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J Smith Foraging Bee
Joined: 13 Jan 2014 Posts: 169 Location: New Zealand, South Island, Southland, Riversdale.
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 3:29 am Post subject: |
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Love your description of Dunedin weather, you just missed one point. The wind can be cold. That is perhaps more of a worry for you than -5 deg C or +30 deg C.
For me it depends on placement of the hive and which is more practical for you given the position- flight path too and from and prevailing winds, available space etc.
Either side or end entrances work, just think of the hive position before deciding.
Che gives good advice above.
Periscope entrances can help cut down wind and help with German Wasp predation if you have them in your neck of the woods. If you don't have them odds are at some stage of the Summer they will find you (at least your hive) if you are urban.
I like to keep entrances on hTBH's at 16mm and in pairs. So two 16 mm holes at each decided position. This allows one to be blanked off when not needed and 1/2" alkathene tubing fits tight into a 16mm hole allowing you to reduce the opening if needed. |
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Quality Top Bar Hives by Andrew Vidler
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Conserving wild bees
Research suggests that bumble bee boxes have a very low success rate in actually attracting bees into them. We find that if you create an environment where first of all you can attract mice inside, such as a pile of stones, a drystone wall, paving slabs with intentionally made cavities underneath, this will increase the success rate.
Most bumble bee species need a dry space about the size a football, with a narrow entrance tunnel approximately 2cm in diameter and 20 cm long. Most species nest underground along the base of a linear feature such as a hedge or wall. Sites need to be sheltered and out of direct sunlight.
There is a spectacular display of wild bee hotels here
More about bumblebees and solitary bees here
Information about the Tree Bumblebee (Bombus hypnorum)
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