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Patrick Thomas Scout Bee

Joined: 29 May 2012 Posts: 280 Location: Florida, USA
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Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 7:14 pm Post subject: Finally did a top bar removal again after months using Langs |
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I was due for another top bar removal.
In this one I show some detail with how I attach the comb to the bars.
VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33d4e3LkOaI
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Ollie Foraging Bee
Joined: 27 Nov 2015 Posts: 136 Location: Ireland, west
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Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2016 5:11 am Post subject: |
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That was a nice clean job. always enjoy watching your videos. |
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Patrick Thomas Scout Bee

Joined: 29 May 2012 Posts: 280 Location: Florida, USA
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Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2016 11:53 am Post subject: |
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Ollie wrote: | That was a nice clean job. always enjoy watching your videos. |
Thanks, Ollie....
By the way, do you ever get to eat local heather honey where you are?
I know that's a 'thing' in the U.K., but I've never tasted it before.
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rays Nurse Bee
Joined: 09 Jul 2012 Posts: 25 Location: Vaud, Switzerland
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Posted: Mon May 16, 2016 5:52 pm Post subject: |
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Patrick,
Many thanks for your video. I used a variation of your technique to "re-hang" a collapsed brood comb today. A similar piece of grid wire ("hardware cloth") but bent down over the side from the top of the bar so I expect to be able to completely remove the wire once the comb has been reattached.
It looks as though you would have to cut the wire away but the underside of the bar would always have the wire remaining on its underside? (Until retired from the hive, at least.) A possible disadvantage of my variation is that there remains a slim wire-width gap between this wired top bar and its neighbour.
My question is how long, in your view or that of others with experience reading this, I should expect to wait before the connection made by the bees will be strong enough to extract the wire prongs safely while removing the support completely so I can close up this temporary 1-2 mm gap and return everything to normal? Thanks. |
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AndyC Scout Bee
Joined: 04 Jul 2014 Posts: 304 Location: Uk/Horsham/RH13
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Posted: Thu May 19, 2016 6:14 am Post subject: |
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Wont the gap be closed up with propolis anyway?
You could just leave those three bars locked together until needs must, maybe.
Just a suggestion. |
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BridgetB Scout Bee
Joined: 12 Jul 2010 Posts: 358 Location: UK Cornwall, Falmouth
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Posted: Thu May 19, 2016 3:43 pm Post subject: |
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I made small saw cuts in the positions of the wires going down the side of the bar. The wire slips in easily and avoids gaps. They also help to hold the wire in position. |
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rays Nurse Bee
Joined: 09 Jul 2012 Posts: 25 Location: Vaud, Switzerland
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Posted: Fri May 20, 2016 5:41 am Post subject: |
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Thanks BridgetB
I wish I had thought of that simple adaptation before I put this bar to use! But good advice for any next time. |
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Patrick Thomas Scout Bee

Joined: 29 May 2012 Posts: 280 Location: Florida, USA
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Posted: Sat May 21, 2016 1:50 pm Post subject: |
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My apologies for taking so long to respond.
I never cut the hardware cloth away, even after they've fully repaired and attached the comb to the bar.
It's just too much trouble.
The mesh doesn't seem to be of any significant hindrance.
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Quality Top Bar Hives by Andrew Vidler
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Conserving wild bees
Research suggests that bumble bee boxes have a very low success rate in actually attracting bees into them. We find that if you create an environment where first of all you can attract mice inside, such as a pile of stones, a drystone wall, paving slabs with intentionally made cavities underneath, this will increase the success rate.
Most bumble bee species need a dry space about the size a football, with a narrow entrance tunnel approximately 2cm in diameter and 20 cm long. Most species nest underground along the base of a linear feature such as a hedge or wall. Sites need to be sheltered and out of direct sunlight.
There is a spectacular display of wild bee hotels here
More about bumblebees and solitary bees here
Information about the Tree Bumblebee (Bombus hypnorum)
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