View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
What Now? Guard Bee
Joined: 26 Mar 2012 Posts: 59 Location: Coventry, UK
|
Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 2:12 pm Post subject: Feeding bees .... |
|
|
Hello Folks. I haven't been here for a year or so. Things seem to have trundled along ok for me and the bees.
However: I have 5 hives 3 all have 1 'super' on. I'm planning on leaving everything therein for the bees over winter.
1 only has the 'bottom' box and a fairly healthy looking crowd.
The final 1 has 4 'supers' on. I was going to steal a bit of honey for my toast during winter. Leave a load for them BUT, and this is where I want your advice please, I was wondering about emptying a 'super of honey' of its bees and then giving it to the first hive I mentioned, for winter. As I said, the 1 with only a bottom box.
Thanks. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Barbara Site Admin
Joined: 27 Jul 2011 Posts: 1857 Location: England/Co.Durham/Ebchester
|
Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 5:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Are all four of the supers on that final hive full? If so then, yes giving one of them to the brood box only colony might not be a bad idea. You could still harvest one or two combs of capped honey for yourself. Enjoy! |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
What Now? Guard Bee
Joined: 26 Mar 2012 Posts: 59 Location: Coventry, UK
|
Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 5:25 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Barbara - thanks so so much for your quick reply. Yes, all the supers are full.
I'm going to do it. Can you suggest when is a good time to do it? Soon or wait until mid september when they've had more time to stock some winter food up for themselves. Thanks. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Barbara Site Admin
Joined: 27 Jul 2011 Posts: 1857 Location: England/Co.Durham/Ebchester
|
Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 6:04 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I would probably do it now, but take a couple of combs out so they have a little room to build new comb which may enable them to move stores from the brood nest and produce a few extra bees before winter. I would arrange it so that the empty frames you replace are the outside ones and then if they don't manage to fill them it is not a big deal, but you don't really want empty spaceI(s) in the centre above the brood nest. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
Quality Top Bar Hives by Andrew Vidler
|
Conserving wild bees
Research suggests that bumble bee boxes have a very low success rate in actually attracting bees into them. We find that if you create an environment where first of all you can attract mice inside, such as a pile of stones, a drystone wall, paving slabs with intentionally made cavities underneath, this will increase the success rate.
Most bumble bee species need a dry space about the size a football, with a narrow entrance tunnel approximately 2cm in diameter and 20 cm long. Most species nest underground along the base of a linear feature such as a hedge or wall. Sites need to be sheltered and out of direct sunlight.
There is a spectacular display of wild bee hotels here
More about bumblebees and solitary bees here
Information about the Tree Bumblebee (Bombus hypnorum)
|
|
Barefoot Beekeeper Podcast
|
|
|
|
4th Edition paperback now available from Lulu.com
|
site map
php. BB © 2001, 2005 php. BB Group
View topic - Feeding bees .... - Natural Beekeeping Network Forum
|
|